Up early to do breakfast this morning, cooked the pancakes which is always fun! Managed to loose quantities of the mix between the jug and the pan but hey-ho... the ones that made it were good!
Today was climbing, had a mass tresspass into Coire and Lochain. Was amused by Sarah OS carrying Sean's huge Grivel Rambo technical axes! Got the Lochan and geared up, the majority of the group headed up to a few icefall that had formed toset up some top-ropes and play on them, led by Ash, Dave M and Andy. The few of us that were left (The heros!) headed up with the intention of doing a route.
We split into two rope teams, with me leading one, followed by Lucy and Chris M on the back and the other led by Tim with Sarah following and Mark at the back. This was my first proper leading in winter so I took the advice of Tim and Chris and set of up a route called 'Left Branch Y Gully' assuming Tim would of picked something eacy like a grade I for my first time. I got to the top of the second pitch after finding it pretty difficult and shouted down to the guys below 'This is a bloody hard I/II!'... the reply echoed back '...well its actually a III...', I then shouted 'F**k! I can't lead Scottish III!' to which I got the reply 'You've done lots... just keep going!'.
I got a bit further up the pitch and then coudlen't see where the route went, above me was a overhanging roof, to the left a sheer wall and the same on the right, I was boxed in! Eventually I decided that we must of got something wrong somewhere, and if there was a way out of this I woulden't of been able to climb it so we backed off and instead did the classic II next door called 'Right Branch Y Gully'. Turns out in order the grade III route to be possible a pillar of ice must form... which it hadn't... good preparation there!
While we were wating for the second route to clear we had quite an intermate belay stance... me, Chris and Lucy all came out of that knowing each other that little bit better! The 3 of us then zoomed up 'Right Branch' with Lucy in 'rambo' mode hacking away at the ice. Encountered a few cornice difficulties until an alternative route was spotted and topped out just as the sun set, amazing.
De-geared and then walked off, back at the bus for 7ish. Another great day.
