Trowbarrow and Bouldering

Made a conscious decision to become a 'better' climber this summer, not technically or safer just to be able to climb harder routes - or more importantly easier one faster, a la Dolomites.

Went to town on Monday and spent too much money in Ultimate Outdoors, a very shiney and hopefully useful WC Ropeman and the Alpine Club selected climbs books for the Dolomites. Then a session in the bouldering wall, in an attempt to improve my stamina I've come up come up with the exercise of doing a route on the first panel, down climbing on any hold then traverse to the second panel and do a route on that, down climb, traverse and back up the third panel - and so on like this until I fall off. Managed to get 6 panels along today with routes up to V3. Aim is to go to the wall everyday for at least an hour, but we'll see if that works out...

Bimble to Trowbarrow yesterday for the afternoon, did some soloing while Emma and Stuggles in the Asagai Jomo areas. Did Jomo, first pitch of frontage and then went and did Ramp Ant while Emma and Struggles climbed it. Then went to have a go at Jean Jeanie. I've been wanting to do the route for quite a while, its VS 4c, but pretty steep and sustained. I know I can climb VS 4c, I led quite a few at Warton a few weeks ago and then several at Shepherds over Easter but every now and then theres one that doesn't agree with me. I backed off Fischer's Folly at Shepherds... I put it down to me not having a good head, fear of falling, I don't do falling, I'd rather come down then try a move and fall off it. Apparently falling is good though, I've heard if you go on one of Planetfear's rock improver course the first thing they get you to do is fall off some routes - to get the fear out of you, maybe this is a solution? Anyhow manged to do the best part of the route, up until the offwidth at 2/3rds height, then was pretty tired so came down, width I'd pushed on a bit further now as I did it on a slack top rope later and didn't have any issues...

Anyhow, it will still be there another day.

Another session in the bouldering wall this afternoon, quite tired now.

1 comments:

At 22 April 2009 at 23:56 ash said...

It's pretty nails is Jean Jeanie. I did it a few years ago and got the fear, BIG time.
Without resting on the rope at all as well.

When it says sustained, it MEANS IT.

Ash

 

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