PS. If anybody with any html knowledge is reading this, do you nkow how to re-size the picture below?
Annual mountaineering group meet in the Ogwen Valley Snowdonia. Spent Friday trapsing round the Coppermines valley above Coniston of some particulary depressing field trip. Lewis met me back at Lancaster at 7, quick shower and then left heading south with a quick stop in Morrisons at Leyland. Got to the Bryn Trych just in time for last orders and hasty planning for Saturday.
Up early, breakfasted and then set off with Martin, Bainbo and Lewis for a mountaineering day. Managed to get in the direct approach to Senior's Ridge by the slabs first before knocking out the Cneifion Arete. Afternoon tea on the top of the Gribbon Ridge before dropping down through the crags on the other side towards the main-face of Glyder Fach. Did the Dolmen Ridge, a grade 3 scramble up there which I had to say was pretty full-on. Defentely felt harder then anything on Cneifion Arete, and that gets Diff! Eventually topped out, did the Cantilever and headed east before ditching into the Cwm and to the campsite. Back around 6/7ish. Top out.
Off to the pub to eat lamb and discuss all thing Dolomatic before conversation began to degrade, probably as a result of the beer that was being imbibed. Eventually got the hint that we were being kicked out when the lights started to be turned off.
Sunday, after some confusing planning eneded up going to do Grooved Arete (HVD) on the east face of Tryfan with Ben C, with trio of Chris Mosely, Julie and Ali following us up. Took a 'direct' approach to the Heather Terrace which was a little tedious. The route was quite clear for the first few pitches, surprisingly considering the weather and the bank holiday weekend. Unfortunately it didn't last, got stuck for about 2 hours below the Knight's Slab as two novices messed about, netherless the banter, however filthy made up for it. Eventually topped out. Packed stuff and then had a sleep while we waited for the other three who were doing the last two pitches separately rather than running them together like we did. Was getting towards 8pm when we started down towards the col but it was a beautiful evening, clear sky and a nice breeze. Very pleasant.
Got changed by Ali's car and then jumped in with Chris, with the rest of his 'life' in his car and down to the pub to just make last food orders. Enjoyed more lamb and then more beer. Again the lights were turned off and we were evicted, so back to the site to take-over Liv and Marks 'party' tent. Eventually found my way to bed.
Woken by Phil early as today was assessment day. Packed and then round to Pete's Eats in Llanberris for 9pm. Met Andy and discussed assessment, then off to Lion's Rock to do the business in atrocious weather. All went well and we were, several hours later back in the cafe. Grabbed some lunch and then set off the tackle the traffic on the way home, still rather moist.
So, 2 top mountaineering day and a successful assessment for multi-pitch trad/scrambling. And of course some excellent company.
Made a conscious decision to become a 'better' climber this summer, not technically or safer just to be able to climb harder routes - or more importantly easier one faster, a la Dolomites.
Went to town on Monday and spent too much money in Ultimate Outdoors, a very shiney and hopefully useful WC Ropeman and the Alpine Club selected climbs books for the Dolomites. Then a session in the bouldering wall, in an attempt to improve my stamina I've come up come up with the exercise of doing a route on the first panel, down climbing on any hold then traverse to the second panel and do a route on that, down climb, traverse and back up the third panel - and so on like this until I fall off. Managed to get 6 panels along today with routes up to V3. Aim is to go to the wall everyday for at least an hour, but we'll see if that works out...
Bimble to Trowbarrow yesterday for the afternoon, did some soloing while Emma and Stuggles in the Asagai Jomo areas. Did Jomo, first pitch of frontage and then went and did Ramp Ant while Emma and Struggles climbed it. Then went to have a go at Jean Jeanie. I've been wanting to do the route for quite a while, its VS 4c, but pretty steep and sustained. I know I can climb VS 4c, I led quite a few at Warton a few weeks ago and then several at Shepherds over Easter but every now and then theres one that doesn't agree with me. I backed off Fischer's Folly at Shepherds... I put it down to me not having a good head, fear of falling, I don't do falling, I'd rather come down then try a move and fall off it. Apparently falling is good though, I've heard if you go on one of Planetfear's rock improver course the first thing they get you to do is fall off some routes - to get the fear out of you, maybe this is a solution? Anyhow manged to do the best part of the route, up until the offwidth at 2/3rds height, then was pretty tired so came down, width I'd pushed on a bit further now as I did it on a slack top rope later and didn't have any issues...
Anyhow, it will still be there another day.
Another session in the bouldering wall this afternoon, quite tired now.
District Climbing competition this weekend... which was a real shame as the weather was superb and I really could of done with getting out to do some REAL climbing.
Anyhow, helped Chris with the preparation of the place and setting of the routes on a few evenings running up to the weekend. First was the scouts on Saturday, routes were maybe a touch on the hard side but it didn't really affect the competition. Ideally could of done with a few more maybe, hoping it will grow a bit in the coming years. Finished up soon after lunch and had some lunch in the sun by the canal in the afternoon with Chris, Liv, Mark and Martin. The home to nap, eat and meet Bob and his new Mrs. and head into Ormskirk. Fairly good evening but did feel a bit like a couples night with the likes of Freeman an Melissa, Katie and Ste to name a few. Dirty people. Lift back from Jenny via Stubb's house about 2am.
The Fonz picked me up early this morning, drove back to dark lane where several were feeling a little worse for wear and got ready for the explorers. Explorers came, did routes and left. Level was probably about right for them, although many failed to grasp the concepts of sit starts and layback which did begin to wear on after a while...
Took down stuff and cleared the room before dumping stuff back at the HQ and to The Plough for yet another lunch in the sun. Then back up to Lancaster this evening.
Was struggling for a title for this, the first of hopefully a long run of frequent entries, but Staind's song came up on iTunes and presented itself fitting quite well. I let myself down a bit for the last 3 months of the year not blogging a single time, fortunately I think I made my target of 52 posts during the year - which is what I'll be aiming for again this year. My New Year's resolution is also to keep this page updated, so lets hope it goes well.
The fact I haven't blogged for the last 3 months is defentely not because I have nothing to write about. I moved away to University at the end of October after probably the best summer of my life and met a whole new world of people. Life pretty different, but not in a bad way at all, the whole living away from home thing is defentely the way to go! Mountaineering wise I've been fairly busy as well. I did my first adventure race in October as well as spending weekend on Arran, in the Lakes and Peak District getting lots of climbing in.
Of special significane is the 'South Ridge Direct' on Chir Mor on Arran that I climbed with Martin, a 400m VS with a overhanging 5a crux. Most cool. Novemeber brought some sunny sport climbing in Yorkshire (dirty dirty bolts) before the winter season kicked of with weekends in Glencoe, routes being done in the lakes and long weekend in Kintail. Again one of the more significant moments was leading my first IV, Viking buttress on Helvellyn.
So let see what the new year brings...
