Up and off early in the morning heading south to welsh Wales! Left mine shortly before 8am and managed to avoid all traffic ending up at the car park in Ogwen around 10. Andy hadn't done much climbing for a while but was keen so I thought he'd really enjoy a day I'd done with Dave an Tracey in the area a few months ago, moving alpine style up a few multi-pitch routes strung together.

Unfortunately the weather wasn't on our side, we left the car park in full waterproofs and it was still coming down when get got to the base of the slabs. Decided to have a crack anyway and if the first pitch did turn to out to be slippery death on a stick we'd come back. I led up and didn't find it 'too' trying so brought Andy up to the first belay and set off up the next pitch. It went on like this for another few pitches with things being difficult but not impossible. I had forgotten about the crux on one of the top pitches though, in dry conditions a simple traverse across an angled smooth slab with lots of smearing on the rock with rock boots. A whole different issue when its lashing it down and wearing big boots with no edges or sole left (mental note to get Trangos re-soled!), first step onto the slab and my foot slid from beneath me...'ah, this could take a little more thinking' I think was my though. After about 15 minutes of trying different ways I figured it out, I had to grasp the single hold in the middle, a little crimp and then crouch down before lunging for a tuft of grass on the other side... will not be in a rush to do that again! Then came the problem of bringing Andy across, who was I think reaching the end of his comfort level by now. I knew that when he took out my last piece of gear he woulden't be protected and if he slipped he'd fall a long down and swing. Placements were sparse but I managed to find a good nut about 5m above and clipped the rope going from me to him into it and used it to keep him on a tight rope as he crossed the slab. One more pitch after this and we were at the top.

We then roped together and moved on up the ledges taking the easiest route possible as there wasn't an inch of rock that was dry! We eventually topped out into the Cwm, and after a bit of persuasion I convinced Andy that we should go for Cneifion Arete as apparently he hadn't been really enjoying it that much up to now, and I could certainly sympathize with him, I now see why nobody climbs on the slabs in the rain!

The first pitch of the Arete is fairly steep, and quite strenuous I think for a diff but all the holds and gear are there if you look for them. I set off and managed to get most of the way to the stance below the chimney before Andy had to set off, the rope went tight as is normal but he didn't move for ages. Peered back over the edge to see him having a few problems so set up a belay and brought him up to me. I then set off up the chimney, this is where Andy started to have real problems - he'd had his sleeves rolled up all day and as a consequence of the muscles getting cold he was getting really bad cramp in both his arms. He attempted the chimney but kept getting the feeling it was pushing him out. Eventually I lowered him back down to the grassy ledge and got him to drop his coils and stick his rucksack on the rope. Brought that up to me and then stuck him on a magic plate and had him come up the chimney again slowly and pointed out all the holds and without his sack his manged to do it. Realized at this point that getting off this at speed was a priority so sat Andy down and told him to wait until the rope went tight and he heard me shout and then start climbing. I then solo'ed up the arete with both the sacs running out the length of the rope and then brought Andy up to me. He'd managed to compose himself a bit by now so took his sac back and I solo'ed up again at speed, two more of these pitches and we were at the top - very much to the relief of Andy!

Contemplated going to bag the Glyders but Andy wanted to get back so we went straight down the Y Gribbon ridge to Cwm Idwal. Got tot he car park at 18.45pm so a pretty long day, but an adventure at that!