I've attempted to resurrect my blogging antics yet again, but have moved - see http://matthewjforshaw.blogspot.com/
PS. If anybody with any html knowledge is reading this, do you nkow how to re-size the picture below?
Annual mountaineering group meet in the Ogwen Valley Snowdonia. Spent Friday trapsing round the Coppermines valley above Coniston of some particulary depressing field trip. Lewis met me back at Lancaster at 7, quick shower and then left heading south with a quick stop in Morrisons at Leyland. Got to the Bryn Trych just in time for last orders and hasty planning for Saturday.
Up early, breakfasted and then set off with Martin, Bainbo and Lewis for a mountaineering day. Managed to get in the direct approach to Senior's Ridge by the slabs first before knocking out the Cneifion Arete. Afternoon tea on the top of the Gribbon Ridge before dropping down through the crags on the other side towards the main-face of Glyder Fach. Did the Dolmen Ridge, a grade 3 scramble up there which I had to say was pretty full-on. Defentely felt harder then anything on Cneifion Arete, and that gets Diff! Eventually topped out, did the Cantilever and headed east before ditching into the Cwm and to the campsite. Back around 6/7ish. Top out.
Off to the pub to eat lamb and discuss all thing Dolomatic before conversation began to degrade, probably as a result of the beer that was being imbibed. Eventually got the hint that we were being kicked out when the lights started to be turned off.
Sunday, after some confusing planning eneded up going to do Grooved Arete (HVD) on the east face of Tryfan with Ben C, with trio of Chris Mosely, Julie and Ali following us up. Took a 'direct' approach to the Heather Terrace which was a little tedious. The route was quite clear for the first few pitches, surprisingly considering the weather and the bank holiday weekend. Unfortunately it didn't last, got stuck for about 2 hours below the Knight's Slab as two novices messed about, netherless the banter, however filthy made up for it. Eventually topped out. Packed stuff and then had a sleep while we waited for the other three who were doing the last two pitches separately rather than running them together like we did. Was getting towards 8pm when we started down towards the col but it was a beautiful evening, clear sky and a nice breeze. Very pleasant.
Got changed by Ali's car and then jumped in with Chris, with the rest of his 'life' in his car and down to the pub to just make last food orders. Enjoyed more lamb and then more beer. Again the lights were turned off and we were evicted, so back to the site to take-over Liv and Marks 'party' tent. Eventually found my way to bed.
Woken by Phil early as today was assessment day. Packed and then round to Pete's Eats in Llanberris for 9pm. Met Andy and discussed assessment, then off to Lion's Rock to do the business in atrocious weather. All went well and we were, several hours later back in the cafe. Grabbed some lunch and then set off the tackle the traffic on the way home, still rather moist.
So, 2 top mountaineering day and a successful assessment for multi-pitch trad/scrambling. And of course some excellent company.
Made a conscious decision to become a 'better' climber this summer, not technically or safer just to be able to climb harder routes - or more importantly easier one faster, a la Dolomites.
Went to town on Monday and spent too much money in Ultimate Outdoors, a very shiney and hopefully useful WC Ropeman and the Alpine Club selected climbs books for the Dolomites. Then a session in the bouldering wall, in an attempt to improve my stamina I've come up come up with the exercise of doing a route on the first panel, down climbing on any hold then traverse to the second panel and do a route on that, down climb, traverse and back up the third panel - and so on like this until I fall off. Managed to get 6 panels along today with routes up to V3. Aim is to go to the wall everyday for at least an hour, but we'll see if that works out...
Bimble to Trowbarrow yesterday for the afternoon, did some soloing while Emma and Stuggles in the Asagai Jomo areas. Did Jomo, first pitch of frontage and then went and did Ramp Ant while Emma and Struggles climbed it. Then went to have a go at Jean Jeanie. I've been wanting to do the route for quite a while, its VS 4c, but pretty steep and sustained. I know I can climb VS 4c, I led quite a few at Warton a few weeks ago and then several at Shepherds over Easter but every now and then theres one that doesn't agree with me. I backed off Fischer's Folly at Shepherds... I put it down to me not having a good head, fear of falling, I don't do falling, I'd rather come down then try a move and fall off it. Apparently falling is good though, I've heard if you go on one of Planetfear's rock improver course the first thing they get you to do is fall off some routes - to get the fear out of you, maybe this is a solution? Anyhow manged to do the best part of the route, up until the offwidth at 2/3rds height, then was pretty tired so came down, width I'd pushed on a bit further now as I did it on a slack top rope later and didn't have any issues...
Anyhow, it will still be there another day.
Another session in the bouldering wall this afternoon, quite tired now.
District Climbing competition this weekend... which was a real shame as the weather was superb and I really could of done with getting out to do some REAL climbing.
Anyhow, helped Chris with the preparation of the place and setting of the routes on a few evenings running up to the weekend. First was the scouts on Saturday, routes were maybe a touch on the hard side but it didn't really affect the competition. Ideally could of done with a few more maybe, hoping it will grow a bit in the coming years. Finished up soon after lunch and had some lunch in the sun by the canal in the afternoon with Chris, Liv, Mark and Martin. The home to nap, eat and meet Bob and his new Mrs. and head into Ormskirk. Fairly good evening but did feel a bit like a couples night with the likes of Freeman an Melissa, Katie and Ste to name a few. Dirty people. Lift back from Jenny via Stubb's house about 2am.
The Fonz picked me up early this morning, drove back to dark lane where several were feeling a little worse for wear and got ready for the explorers. Explorers came, did routes and left. Level was probably about right for them, although many failed to grasp the concepts of sit starts and layback which did begin to wear on after a while...
Took down stuff and cleared the room before dumping stuff back at the HQ and to The Plough for yet another lunch in the sun. Then back up to Lancaster this evening.
Was struggling for a title for this, the first of hopefully a long run of frequent entries, but Staind's song came up on iTunes and presented itself fitting quite well. I let myself down a bit for the last 3 months of the year not blogging a single time, fortunately I think I made my target of 52 posts during the year - which is what I'll be aiming for again this year. My New Year's resolution is also to keep this page updated, so lets hope it goes well.
The fact I haven't blogged for the last 3 months is defentely not because I have nothing to write about. I moved away to University at the end of October after probably the best summer of my life and met a whole new world of people. Life pretty different, but not in a bad way at all, the whole living away from home thing is defentely the way to go! Mountaineering wise I've been fairly busy as well. I did my first adventure race in October as well as spending weekend on Arran, in the Lakes and Peak District getting lots of climbing in.
Of special significane is the 'South Ridge Direct' on Chir Mor on Arran that I climbed with Martin, a 400m VS with a overhanging 5a crux. Most cool. Novemeber brought some sunny sport climbing in Yorkshire (dirty dirty bolts) before the winter season kicked of with weekends in Glencoe, routes being done in the lakes and long weekend in Kintail. Again one of the more significant moments was leading my first IV, Viking buttress on Helvellyn.
So let see what the new year brings...
Just a quick note about the last few days as I'm in the midst of getting ready to move out tomorrow...
Went down to Llanberis on tuesday morning to meet the rest of the course in Pete's Eats - Eve a local and Luke & Becks from CMC. Went to Tremadog Upper Tier for the first day dealing mainly with personal climbing skills but also some group work stuff. Finished up with some climbing there in the evening as the weather was superb leading a fantastic HS and VS 4c with Eve. Back to Llanberis to crash in the bunkhouse above Pete's Eats after a devouring a Madras from next door.
Up again the next day to meet everybody and then we preceded to flit between several smaller crags locally dealing with stuff like group abseils and rescues etc. Finished up at the Beacon climbing wall again getting some climbing in in the evening. Pretty good wall with some really interesting routes. Then did the paperwork side of things and got recommended to go for assessment as apparently I'm ready, think I'd feel a bit more confident with a few more group sessions outside under my belt so will try and get them in before doing it. Home that evening via an Indian buffet near Wrexham - yet more Madras!
Was fairly tired yesterday but managed to get some stuff done for university before cycling to Rufford to meet Martin so we could practice our sea kayaking for Splash an Dash in the evening.
Next time I post I'll be living in Lancaster and by the sounds of Fresher's Week probably inebriated.
Feels like I've had a bit of a rock and roll lifestyle for the past few days, drinking to all hours every night, jumping on and off planes and meeting some very very attractive foreign ladies! Quite a contrast from last weekend when I spent 3 straight days at the Dark Lane climbing wall!
Stuff really started happeing thursday afternoon, got myself down to Margaret Loma's to do my much needed CRB and have some tea before Martin picked me up and we headed to Lathom. Arrived and met Chris and started packing stuff into numerous veichles, then down to Tawd to unload the stuff only to find somebody had pitched up in the middle of Chris's 'Danger Zone'. Dumped stuff closer to the training field then headed back to the masonic. Hitched a lift back to Tarleton with Ken getting home about 9.30pm and dropping into Yeti which was finishing up. Got in after that for a Portuguese shower and change of clothes before Jenny arrived around 10.30 then grabbed Bob and set off into Preston.
Met David and Katie in Revolution as well as several mates from High School I've not seen for a while. Phil an Lewis arrived shortly after us, drinking and dancing ensued. Me an Lewis then moved on to Yates to meet Liz an Laura and co, and take advantage of the cheaper drinks - £1 a pint! Eventually got evicted when the place shut and went to Loft, now I've not been to loft before but I don't think i'll be going back... £5 to get into a room the size of somebody's loft!!! Think it was about 4am when we got out, after numerous texts throughout the evening between me an Phil counting down the hours to Germany. Grabbed some garlic bread from a kebab house with everybody and then back in the car with Jenny and off home.
Up only a few hours later to frantically pack fro Germany. Stu an Bob arrived and we set off down to Ormskirk. Met the rest of the crew there and in the minibus to Manchester. Checked in fine, minor issue at security with my knee brace and into the terminal to start the weekend with a hearty meal in 'Giraffe' and a few beers. Then downstairs to drink some more at the bar with the purpose of getting free hats... The plane we had was only small being predominantly a business flight as Düsseldorf is in Germany's most industrialized state. So you can image how we fitted in perfectly! More free drinks on the plane courtesy of Lufthansa.
We landed and were greeted by one of our coasts then onto the 'party' bus for the drive to Erkrath and our accommodation in quite a posh boarding school. We found some crates of Becks in the entrance and gathered around them when one of the German organizer's arrived to highlight the European stereotype of the British that we do drink an awful lot... We got given our teams (I must stress this is a sporting weekend - we didn't just get pissed!) and back on the party bus to go bowling. After driving around the leafy suburbs of Erkrath we arrived at the place and started bowling which was good fun, there is also the small fact there was a free bar.
Back to the school to consume huge quantities of Beck's and mix with the foreigners. Many an hour later I headed upstairs, last to bed with Ricko. On the way we found Phil in a room with 5 of the younger girls... entered and talked for a while until we decided to remove Philip much to his disgust. Got abuse for half an hour or so from him while going to sleep claiming we'd ruined his chance for a foreign five-some!!!
Woke not feeling too bad, just extremely tired due to the lack of sleep on the previous too nights. Had breakfast and then off to go swimming at the local pool. Did countless races against the other teams in the pool, with me and Waldamar (who Lewis referred to as Voldemort) having to do double laps due to our team being a few people town... absolutely exhausted. Got some relaxation at the end jumping off the rather tall diving board and playing polo. Back to the school for lunch, with more Becks.
Off to Düsseldorf for afternoon to peruse some very expensive shops, on allegedally the most expensive street in Germany. More bouncers on the doors there then there is in Manchester on a Saturday night! Many many posh cars as well, went to look at a Bentley with Phil an Lewis and then crossed a road only to nearly get mowed down by a Ferrari! Soon learnt the lesson that Germany is like the US, no J-walking. Got some Jagermeister from one of the shops and then back to re-group via some of the local beer tents that lined the streets. They employ a very very clever idea whereas the price of a beer includes the glass so you can just walk off with it, or with 3.
That evening we were doing water-skiing which I've never done before... and not behind a boat ever, on a crazy ski-lift-esque maching that towed you in circular pattern round the lake at great speed. I still maintain that machine was the devil. Took me a few a go's to get the hang of it but when I did it was superb, defentely something to do again.
After this it was onto the evening's BBQ, good food and even better watched Pam get extremely drunk. Likened the level of respect I had for her to the level of beer in my bottle - constantly falling, and then to be ultimately discarded. Back to the school to consume much Jagermeister, the best part of two bottle methinks! Talked with everybody, occasionally making very poor attempts at German. Played spin the bottle with the foreigners, sang some more, tried to deal with a pissed Maria and failed, sang more and then eventually at a god-forsaken hour collapsed on the coach in our room. Top night. Absolutely fantastic.
Woken by Ricko, had breakfast and then packed stuff to get back on the Party Bus. Slept all of the way as by this point I really think I was suffering from exhaustion, and was probably also still drunk from a few hours earlier. When we arrived I thought they'd driven us to an abandoned industrial estate to be shot or similar but we went inside one of the derelict looking warehouse to find a pretty cool sports centre! Our final competition was beach volleyball and football. Our team nailed the football and won one out of 2 of our volleyball matches.
Lunch was at another venue, I think maybe their town hall with a very German buffet. The team's results were announced, we (Orange) came 3rd which is a downturn from last years 1st but we maintained we were defentely the most stylish! Said goodbyes after this and got back on the party bus and to the airport, every thing after this is quite blurred as I was falling asleep whenever I sat down!
Lots of photos all over facebook of the weekend, I'll put some of mine onto my gallery when I get the chance.
So again, a weekend with no mountaineering much like Connected but in this case possibly better than a lot of weekends in the mountains I've had. Made lots of new friends that I think I'll be keeping in touch with, and had a great time with others I've know for a very long time. Pretty dam good.
Friday brought rain, in fact from the moment I got up I don't think it stopped raining once. Tom arrived at mine at 3 just as I got a text from Maria to say we were leaving an hour later so we killed some time - mainly looking out the window wondering if it was was going to ever stop raining, it didn't.
Olivia soon arrived and we packed the car and left, a quick pause at the BP garage at the Parbold Junction to meet Maria and we headed South. The weather was still atrocious and their was congestion on the M62 so suggested the A580, which after finding our way onto it through some small flooded roads turned out to be a good move. Hit the ring road and came off in Stockport to stock up on much needed supplies at the Tesco there (Jägermeister) and then south through Marple to the campsite. Put too much faith in Olivia's sat nav which took us the wrong way... into a farm with a £10 turning fee! Hastily retreated and found the right entrance.
Put up tent and then into Marple with Maria, Olivia an Tom to retrieve Chicken Madras. Back at the site we engaged in the evenings activities, got to talk and catch up with loads of people i've not seen over the summer. Heather made an appearance which was cool, taking a liking to Tom! To bed 5ish maybe...
Up an packed stuff, due to the continuing rain made a tactical decision to go to awesome walls rather than a crag. Didn't bother me too much as 'd been climbing at where we would of gone (Windgather) the week before. The awesome walls place in Stockport is truly awesome. Theres a 25m wall which I think is the biggest 've ever seen, really good for stamina training. Found grading a bit funny tough, quite a few of the 5's were easier than some of the 6a's - strange, but then again I reckon its April since I climbed indoor! Ate lunch on the big nice leather couches upstairs while flicking through copies of climb and moaning that my climbing shoes that I've had for 2 weeks now look more abused than Katie's that shes had for over a year, despite being th same model! I blame Valkyrie.
Sloped off late afternoon after getting quite pumped and suggesting that a few pints in a beer garden would be a nice way to finish the day to Julie.
Once back to site watched a drunk Jenny roll about in the mud, had a nap then feasted at the BBQ. Then it was Toga time, got into my costume and started the partying. Really good fun and was great to see most people had made an effort with their costumes. The band that played were pretty good and seemed to hold scouting in some respect which was good, then dancing ensued which was also good. Found myself with Tom an Maria around 3am I think with most people either in bed or passed out somewhere... so figured that we should probably follow the trend!
Got woken up by Tom an 12.30pm, apparently I'd missed flag-break and all the morning activities (not the first time thats happened!). It was still raining do they moved the closing ceremony earlier to 1pm. Packed stuff and said goodbyes then hopped in Maria's car and set off home. Had a minor hitch with a detour to Denton but other than that the journey home was smooth.
So, a weekend of a lot less mountain adventure then I've been used too over the last few months but none the less good. I am coming to terms with the fact that on a lot of these events the priority is the social side of things rather than the activities which if thats what people want I don't have a problem with, but I do come away feeling rather un-satisfied. Hmn.
